37 weeks down, who-knows-how-many more to go! :)
Although originally designed for cloth diapers, “wet bags” seem like they’d be useful for a ton of different things. I’m sure there are umpteen reasons why a baby would get something wet or soiled while you’re out and about, and these bags are reusable and oh-so-much cuter than a plastic grocery bag.
I have two versions: one with a zipper and one with a tie. I’ll share the zipper one today and the tied one another day.
You can feel free to make these whatever size you’d like. I made my zippered one big enough for cloth diaper purposes at home (I know, am I crazy?!), but I have no idea whether or not it’s the ideal size. I guess I’ll find out soon! :)
- PUL (polyurethane laminate–that waterproof stuff that’s all the rage right now)
- a zipper (length depends on the size you’d like it)
To get started, cut squares out of your fabric and PUL. They should be the same size. Mine were 21″ x 21″ so I could use a 1/2 seam allowance and end up with a 20″ sqaure bag.
Ideally, the squares should be the same length as your zipper. My zipper was too short (14″), so I also cut out some tabs to lap over the ends and make up the difference. I needed 7 extra inches total, so that means a 3 1/2″ strip for each side plus a 1/2″ to fold over on one end. So 4″ tabs that are the width of your zipper.
Got your pieces? :)
Now we’ll sew the zipper in, and then we’ll sew the sides of the bag together.
Place your zipper upside down and centered on one of your pieces of fabric.
Press down 1/2″ on the end of your tabs.
Pin the zipper and tabs in place, and sew with a zipper foot along the top edge of the zipper. (If you know much about sewing, you’ll notice I actually didn’t use my zipper foot correctly. Hence the “swerve” where the zipper pull is. Oops. :) )
With your iron, press the zipper up and away from your fabric.
Leave your fabric sitting just like that. Grab your other fabric square, and put it face down, lined up with the top of the zipper (the side that’s not sewn to anything yet, and where the raw edges of the tabs are).
Pin in place and sew down, catching the tabs in your seam. It should look like this from the front when you’re done.
Now it’s time to attach the PUL. The goal is to have the edges of the zipper tape between the PUL and the regular fabric. So even though it seems weird to do it this way, it works out really well :)
Set up your fabric so it looks like the photo below. The zipper should be totally visible.
Take one piece of PUL, and lay it shiny-side-down over the zipper and fabric. Align it to the top edge, and pin in place.
Check to make sure it’s going to work out right before you sew–spread out the fabric and flip the PUL over the pins. The shiny side should now be facing up, and the dull side should be facing the wrong side of your fabric. If that’s not how yours works, go back and try again :)
Flip everything back to where you can see the pins, and sew the PUL to the zipper and fabric.
Then check it again to make sure you like how it works out :) Give it a good press, but take care not to hurt the PUL with an iron that’s too hot. You might want to iron on the other side instead of directly on the PUL. But whatever floats your boat is fine :)
Then set up your fabric to attach the other piece of PUL. Just like with the fabric, the edge of the zipper tape and the raw edge of the fabric tab should be at the top.
Lay your second piece of PUL with the shiny side down so that its raw edge is aligned with those other raw edges.
You can doublecheck before you sew if you’d like to, but if you got the first piece right, this is probably fine. Sew it up!
I chose to topstitch mine after this section was finished, but you don’t have to if you don’t want to. :)
Now we’ve got to sew together the sides of the bag.
Align your fabrics and PUL like this: both fabrics on one side, right sides together. Both PUL pieces on the other side, making one long rectangle.
With the zipper unzipped, sew one large rectangle all around the perimeter of the bag. Leave a space for turning in the bottom edge of the fabric (not the PUL). You’ll want a good 5-6″ gap to easily turn it all.
Now hand-stitch the opening closed, make sure all the seams are pressed nice and flat, and you’re good to go!
(Shared at Live Renewed)